I fish harbours at night more than I admit to my smartphone’s location history. There’s something addictive about the way pollack light up under quay lamps, how a single glow stick makes the water read like a topographic map of current and structure. Over the years I’ve learned where to place that glow, when to let it drift, and which rigs consistently put pollack in the net while others just tangle or tucker out on the bottom.

Where to put a glow stick — the short version

Place the glow stick where the fish are most likely to cross your line of sight and where your bait will be moving naturally: close to the water surface when fishing light lures under lights, or on the trace a little above the hook when targeting cleaner bites closer to structure. If you’re fishing vertically beneath quay lights, clip one to the top 30–60cm of the trace. When casting and retrieving along a wall, put the glow stick at the head of your trace, roughly 1–2m ahead of the hook to create a visible attractor that moves above the lure.

Why the glow stick matters under harbourside lights

Harbour lights do half the job for you — they attract bait and outline structure — but a glow stick gives your rig a focal point. Pollack are opportunistic feeders and respond to contrast and motion. At night the glow acts like a moving patch of bioluminescence, helping fish pick out your lure or bait against the artificially lit background. I prefer the thin 6–8mm glow sticks for shore use because they’re subtle, don’t add excessive bulk, and the slim profile keeps the action of soft plastics and feathers natural.

Placement specifics I use

When I’m fishing directly off a wall or jetty under a single, strong lamp I:

  • Clip the glow stick to a short length of 18–30lb fluorocarbon leader, 30–60cm from the hook, using a small glow stick holder or a split ring. This keeps it close to the bait but prevents tangles during the initial drop.
  • If I’m long-casting along a harbour arm, I put the glow at the head of the trace 1–2m ahead of the hook. That way the glow skims across the water surface and leads the lure, encouraging intercepting strikes.
  • When using a float or bobber setup for vertical fishing I attach the glow to the top of the trace just below the float, so the glow sits 0.5–2m above the bait depending on depth.

    • Rig 1 — The Glow-Forward Stinger (best for soft plastics and short-range casting)

    This is my go-to when pollack are active close to the wall and I want the glow to lead the lure. It’s simple, tangle-resistant, and keeps action natural.

  • Hook: 1/0–2/0 wide gape worm hook (Owner Mutu Light or Gamakatsu Worm 2/0)
  • Leader: 30–45cm 18–30lb fluorocarbon
  • Mainline: 15–20lb braid with a 20–30lb shock leader if casting heavy
  • Glow placement: 1–2m ahead of the hook, on a short length of light mono looped to the leader and held with a small split ring or dedicated glow holder

    • How I fish it: I cast towards the light’s edge and retrieve with a stop-start action — quick twitches then a longer pause. The glow skims on the surface or just below it and pollack often take during the pause. It’s particularly effective with 3–4” shads (Keitech or Savage Gear) or a small paddle-tail.

    Rig 2 — The Vertical Glow Trace (best for deep water and beneath pontoons)

    When I’m fishing directly beneath boats or along deep quay walls, I switch to a vertical setup that keeps the glow close to the action and the bait presenting cleanly to fish holding at depth.

  • Hook: 2/0–3/0 demountable/assist hook or light long-shank (I like decoy demountables or Owner ST-36BC assist hooks)
  • Leader: 40–60cm 25–35lb fluorocarbon
  • Weight: swept down with 2–4oz lead depending on depth and current (use bank sinkers or inline leads)
  • Glow placement: clipped to the leader 30–60cm above the hook

    • How I fish it: Drop the rig straight down and make small lifts of 10–20cm, letting the bait flutter back. When pollack sit near structure, a subtle lift and fall triggers aggressive strikes. The glow’s proximity keeps the profile compact and mimics small, injured baitfish under lights.

    Rig 3 — The Suspended Trace with Beat (best for lures and feather jigs)

    If I’m using feather jigs, micro-jigs or small hardbaits, I want the glow to sit just above the hook so it enhances the lure’s profile without dampening action. This rig is about movement and flash.

  • Hook/lure: feather jig (10–30g), micro-vertical jigs, small minnow lures
  • Leader: 25–30cm 20–30lb fluorocarbon
  • Trace attachment: short loop with a bead to stop the glowholder sliding
  • Glow placement: 20–40cm above the hook on the leader, held stiff with a small bead or silicone sleeve so it doesn’t spin freely

    • How I fish it: Cast or drop and use an erratic retrieve — lift-drop, wind then jerk — to mimic fleeing bait. The glow adds a pulsating point of attraction which, combined with the jig’s flash, often produces the quick, savage strikes pollack are known for.

    Quick table — when to use each rig

    Situation Rig Why it works
    Close to harbour wall, short casts Glow-Forward Stinger Glow leads the lure; natural action for soft plastics
    Beneath pontoons, deep water Vertical Glow Trace Compact presentation; good for holding fish near structure
    Feathers, micro-jigs, lures Suspended Trace with Beat Glow increases contrast, complements flash and erratic action

    Practical tips I use every trip

  • Use a slim glow-holder rather than taping the stick to the line — it reduces tangles and makes changing sticks quick. I usually carry half a dozen spare holders and glow sticks in a small waterproof bag.
  • Match the glow colour to conditions: green or white for clearer water and blue or pink when there’s heavy lighting or when you want a subtler contrast. I find green often triggers more bites around algae-rich shores.
  • Keep your leader long enough to prevent the glow from tangling with the lure on the retrieve — 30–60cm is my sweet spot depending on the rig.
  • When fish are shy, reduce the action and let the glow do the talking. Often the most bites come during slow, natural presentations rather than aggressive flicking.
  • Always check local harbour rules about night fishing and be mindful of boat traffic. A glow-sticked trace can help you spot your setup quickly if a boat churns up the water nearby.

    • Those are the setups that consistently put pollack in my crate under harbour lights. The most important thing is to experiment: drop the glow a little higher or lower, try a different colour, alter your retrieve. Night fishing under quay lamps is as much observation as it is gear — watch how the fish react and let that guide your tweaks. Tight lines and enjoy the night show.