I spend more time than I care to admit tweaking rigs on windy reef marks where pollack live cheek-by-jowl with gangs of opportunistic mackerel. Over the years I’ve learned that stopping mackerel thefts is less about brute force and more about subtly changing where and how the bait sits in the water, and matching hook size and bait presentation to what pollack actually want. Below I give the exact trace lengths, hook choices and bait combos I use when I want pollack and not mackerel to steal the show.

Why mackerel steal bait (and what that means for your rig)

Mackerel are small, toothy, surface-to-midwater opportunists. They rarely take whole, well-presented baits from the seabed; instead they nip at bright, exposed strips or lures on the way down. On reef marks where the water column is busy, a long, flashy trace or a dangling strip of mackerel will read as an easy snack. Pollack, by contrast, usually take from the seabed or just above it. The trick is to present a bait that reaches the pollack zone quickly and stays there without exciting the midwater mackerel.

Exact trace length that works for me

My go-to trace length for reef pollack when mackerel are active is 30–45 cm (12–18 inches) from the swivel to the hook. This length keeps the bait close to the weight and therefore close to the seabed, reducing the time the bait spends in midwater where mackerel do most of their stealing.

When I need to ensure the bait sits absolutely on the bottom (fast tidal run or deep reef), I’ll shorten to 25–30 cm. If the pollack are feeding slightly above the bottom and mackerel aren’t too aggressive, I’ll extend to the upper end of the range at 45 cm. Anything longer than 50 cm offers too much midwater exposure and invites mackerel interference.

Hook size and style

Pollack have a good mouth and will take larger hook points; mackerel have small mouths and can often nip at the edge of a small hook without hooking themselves. I use:

  • Gamakatsu Octopus / Kirbed hooks in 1/0 to 2/0 for most general reef pollack work.
  • 1/0 short-shank Aberdeen when I want a slimmer presentation with whole sandeel baits.
  • 2/0 or 3/0 wide-gape hooks when the fish are bigger and baits are bulkier (whole mackerel strips, big sandeels).

    • For me, the sweet spot is 1/0 for cleaner presentation with smaller baits and 1/0–2/0 for the majority of reef sessions. The 1/0 size is large enough to hold a pollack securely but small enough that mackerel rarely manage to take the whole bait without getting hooked. Short-shank patterns (octopus/short-shank AB) present bait close to the hook point and reduce the chance of a mackerel nipping strips off without getting caught.

    Trace material and breaking strain

    I use fluorocarbon traces for abrasion resistance and low visibility. My standard is:

  • Seaguar or similar 0.50–0.60 mm fluorocarbon (25–30 lb / 11–14 kg).

    • This thickness gives good bite resistance against pollack’s rough mouths and rock abrasion around reefs. If there’s a serious risk of tooth damage from larger species, I’ll step up to a fine wire trace on a separate hook (but that’s rare for typical pollack marks and will spook more wary fish).

    Bait choice and hooking method to deter mackerel

    How you hook the bait is as important as which bait you use. My favourite bait combos for keeping mackerel at bay while attracting pollack are:

  • Whole sandeel threaded through the eye and out the belly — presented straight and slim, this sits naturally on the seabed and is less attractive to midwater mackerel.
  • Half a mackerel or mackerel tail, tightly fixed on a single, large hook (1/0–2/0) — push the hook through the backbone or wrap the point back and pin the strip so it doesn’t flap.
  • Thin strips of squid folded and kept tight — squid strips can be tempting to mackerel. Fold them and use a short hooklink and heavier sinker so they stay put.

    • My favourite specific setups:

  • Whole sandeel on a 1/0 short-shank octopus, trace 30 cm, 40–60 g weight close to the knot.
  • Half mackerel tail on a 1/0 Gamakatsu wide-gape, trace 35 cm, use a baiting pin or bank to keep the strip tight along the shank.

    • Rig layout and weights

    I fish a simple paternoster / fixed-length running ledger depending on conditions. Key points:

  • Keep your sinker weight as close to the top swivel as practical so the bait rides close to the bottom. Typical sinkers: 3–6 oz (85–170 g) depending on tide strength.
  • Use a bead and swivel knot to protect the knot and give the weight a tidy stop.
  • A tidy tubing loop over the knot reduces tangles and keeps the trace aligned with the mainline.
    • Condition Trace length Hook size Bait Weight
    Fast tide/strong current 25–30 cm 1/0–2/0 Whole sandeel 60–120 g
    Medium tide, mackerel active 30–45 cm 1/0 Half mackerel tail pinned 40–80 g
    Calm, pollack feeding up 40–45 cm 1/0–2/0 Folded squid or sandeel tip 30–60 g

    Rig tying steps (quick and practical)

    Here’s the step-by-step I use on the bank:

  • Tie a strong swivel to the mainline with a Palomar or improved clinch.
  • Attach the sinker to the mainline above the swivel (running ledger) or use a fixed-loop if you prefer a paternoster layout.
  • Measure and tie a 30–45 cm fluorocarbon trace to the swivel using a secure knot (FG knot or Uni-to-Uni works well for braid to fluoro transitions).
  • Attach the chosen hook (1/0 short-shank octopus is my default), make sure the point is sharp and barb appropriate for your local regs.
  • Bait carefully — thread sandeel straight, pin mackerel strips, fold squid — make sure the bait is tight to the shank.
  • Drop it close to the reef, keep the rod tip low so the bait sits on or just above the bottom.

    • Small tweaks that make a big difference

    Some final practical tweaks I use when mackerel are a nuisance:

  • Use duller, less reflective hooks and avoid shiny swivels near the bait — flashy bits attract mackerel.
  • Keep bait movement minimal — avoid long, flapping strips.
  • Change bait scent: fresh sandeel often out-fishes oily mackerel strips for pollack and is less attractive to pelagic thieves.
  • Use a heavier weight to get you through the midwater zone quicker — the bait should hit the bottom fast.
  • When possible, fish right on the tide slack where midwater activity drops and pollack will take more confidently.

    • These are the exact trace lengths, hooks and bait combos that consistently reduce mackerel theft for me without sacrificing attraction to pollack. On those rocky Welsh reefs patience and tidy presentation win more fish than brute weight or ultra-long traces. If you want, I can put together a printable rig card you can keep in a tackle box with the exact knots and measurements I use — just say the word and I’ll format it up for the site.